Review of Aerolineas Argentinas flight from El Calafate to San Carlos de Bariloche in Economy

Hello everyone and welcome back to the next leg of this Argentina journey. This is the fifth flight out of nine, which means we have officially passed the halfway point of the routing!

After a superb stay in the Santa Cruz district home to two of Patagonia’s UNESCO-listed wonders we are beginning our journey back north with a 'short' flight to the skiing capital of Argentina: Bariloche.

Introduction

It was in the autumn of 2024 that a trip already postponed several times was finally able to be organized. My father has crossed the milestone of turning 70 the previous summer, and it was more than time for him to enjoy his gift: a trip to Patagonia! There would therefore be four of us on this journey: my two parents, my girlfriend and I.

The first small challenge in planning the trip and the routing was that we were not departing from the same city. My parents were leaving from Grenoble, while my partner and I were departing from Toulouse.

Several options were available to reach Buenos Aires. Air France offered flights with convenient schedules, but fares of €1,400 without checked baggage were rather discouraging when departing from regional airports. Iberia proposed an interesting alternative, but the return schedules to Lyon were not ideal, and the fare without checked baggage was still around €1,100.

Out of curiosity, we looked at departures from Paris and came across a very attractive offer from Air Europa at €783 round trip, with convenient schedules for those commuting from the provinces. Departure from Orly was on Saturday late afternoon, with a return on Sunday morning at 9:30 a.m. Fares including checked baggage were, unsurprisingly, about sixty euros more expensive, but still reasonable.

For me personally, this was particularly appealing as I hold SkyTeam Elite Plus status, of which Air Europa is still a member. This also allowed us all to have the same departure point from a Paris airport and to be on the same international flights.

For domestic flights, we kept things simple by booking exclusively with the national carrier, Aerolíneas Argentinas, which offered fares comparable to low-cost airlines on domestic routes, with the added benefit of better schedules. On certain routes, such as El Calafate–Bariloche or Trelew–Buenos Aires Aeroparque, they were in fact the only airline operating those flights.

This resulted in the following routing:

The route between El Calafate and Bariloche is operated daily by Aerolíneas Argentinas, which is actually the only airline flying this domestic leg. On certain days, as is the case with our flight, Bariloche is just a stopover, and the aircraft continues up to Buenos Aires' Aeroparque. This route is primarily for tourism, though there were still plenty of Argentines on board (more than I expected, at least). Another option is taking a long-distance bus, but that involves about 20 hours on the road.

This route will be a new entry for the English database.

Morning departure from El Calafate

An early morning departure from our accommodation in the center of El Calafate. The rental car is quickly loaded up, and we hit the road in the dark toward the airport. It is a short twenty-kilometer drive, which we completed without any issues.

The rental car parking lot is located less than 50 meters from the terminal. The 'orange' rental agency doesn't open until 7:30 AM, which happens to be exactly when we planned to return our vehicle. At this hour, the arrivals area (where the rental desks are located) is a total ghost town there isn't a human in sight, just a cat! ^^

However, the person in charge of the morning shift was a bit late, and I found the doors still locked at the German rental desk. Of note was the sign informing foreign drivers of local hazards, such as winds strong enough to 'blow the horns off a bull' (and incidentally bend car doors) or uncommon wildlife like ostriches and Guanacos (a sort of local llama). In fact, the rental agent insisted quite a bit on the llama, describing the animal as unpredictable, stupid, and suicidal… Consider ourselves warned!

I took advantage of the wait to head over to the Aerolíneas Argentinas counters to check my luggage. It was a mere formality thanks to my Skyteam Elite+ status, which granted me access to the SkyPriority lanes.

"Once printed, the boarding pass looks exactly like the one I received in Buenos Aires the week before. It sports the airline's nice blue color and logo, but it has the flimsiness of a grocery receipt much to the dismay of collectors.

A few details of the terminal's groundside area, including this statue of Comandante Armando Tola, after whom the airport is named.

A general view of the check-in area, which also features a few shops and a cafeteria that is doing a brisk trade this morning.

I left my backpack to my family while I did a quick walk-around of the vehicle with the lessor. It only took a few minutes, and there was no risk of theft, here they have baggage-guarding kitties on duty!

Passing through security was a bit slow, with only one lane open for two flights. The agent in charge of boarding pass checks was particularly discriminatory in her attitude (along with some of her colleagues) toward the pair of Argentinians female passengers right in front of us, both of whom were singled out for additional screening at the checkpoint…

To reach the departures level, we had to go up one floor. In certain spots, the airside area is narrow, to say the least

The FIDS displays nearly all of the day's flights. It’s worth noting that there was quite a bit of variety regarding destinations that day, notably including LADE a state-owned airline that operates flights using Argentine Air Force aircraft.

In other areas, the terminal is much wider and offers pleasant waiting areas with the added bonus of large floor-to-ceiling windows. These provide a view of Lake Argentino, as well as aircraft movements, whether on the runway or at the stands.

Our Boeing 737-800 for the day is already at the gate. This is LV-GVB, which has spent nearly all of its 8-year career with Aerolíneas.

Despite its small size, the airport even features a multi-airline lounge. Although I hold SkyTeam Elite+ status, I don't technically have access; Aerolíneas Argentinas is not (yet?) among the SkyTeam members that offer lounge access on their domestic flights. However, if I recall correctly, on of the fellow french flight-repoter managed to get access during is visit a couple of months before.

Seven gates in this small airport I must admit I’m surprised. Through the windows on this side, we can see a JetSmart Airbus A320 getting ready to head back to Buenos Aires (AEP).

Boarding for our flight began slightly ahead of schedule, with priority boarding well-respected even though the agent initially thought I was in the wrong lane (I must not look like a frequent flyer yet ^^). The more observant among you will notice that both destinations are displayed: the stopover in Bariloche and the flight’s final destination, Aeroparque.

Heading toward the aircraft just as the sun rises on the horizon, illuminating the distant peaks.

Through the jetbridge windows, I can finally see which animal is featured on our neighbor’s tail. It’s the jaguar; much like the American carrier Frontier, JetSmart displays a different animal on each of its aircraft.

Even though the airport is far from huge, it is nonetheless equipped with several jet bridges. This is quite a plus for boarding during the harsh weather conditions that can plague the region, even if it wasn't strictly necessary that day.

Fuselage shoot

On board AR Boeing 737-800

The welcome on board by the crew at the door was friendly. We walked straight through the 'small' Business class cabin, which features two rows of wide recliners that looked comfortable in a 2x2 configuration. Only the advertising on the headrest covers clearly detracted from the premium feel.

As for the rest of the cabin, it features these rather thick seats in grey imitation leather. Esthetically, they are very plain, but they aren't uncomfortable by any means.

Be careful with row 9 on the left side of the aircraft, as it does not have a window.

There are two overwing exits located above the wings of our 737-800.

According to the AeroLopa seat map, the cabin layout is exactly the same as the previous flight. This is quite good news, as the configuration is relatively low-density with 170 seats, even though the aircraft is certified for up to 189.

As a result, despite the thick seats, the legroom (pitch) remains good. Once again, we had no one in the middle seat, allowing my partner and me to enjoy a row of three all to ourselves.

Boarding was fairly quick, with the cabin showing a load factor of about 70% on this first leg.

We pushed back perfectly on time, while the cabin crew performed the safety demonstrations by hand.

We taxied down toward the runway. Indeed, the terminal is slightly higher than the runway, which we had to backtrack to reach for a departure on Runway 25, facing West.

Once the U-turn was completed, and without further delay, our pilots pushed our two CFM56 engines to takeoff power, and our morning Boeing speed down the runway before lifting effortlessly above the airport facilities.

We gained altitude over the shores of Lago Argentino.

A right turn, heading North. In the distance, we can see the town of El Calafate on the edge of the lake the biggest town for hundreds of miles around, even if it's quite small.

Our initial climb took us over the rolling terrain of the Santa Cruz district. Unfortunately, a few clouds clinging to the mountain peaks blocked the view of Cerro Norte.

We quickly reached the skies above Lake Viedma.

We weren't any luckier with Mount Fitz Roy, which was also hidden in the clouds; we could only just make out a glimpse of the Torre Glacier. To be perfectly honest, and as you’ll see in the bonus section, we had more than our fair share of views in the preceding days! ^^

A close-up of our winglet in the Aerolíneas Argentinas livery, which, like any good national carrier, features the colors of the national flag. Incidentally, AR's status could be set to change in the years to come.

Next up is Lake San Martin, a true inland sea connecting Argentina and Chile. Interestingly, the lake changes its name as it crosses the border, becoming Lake O'Higgins.

The cabin atmosphere is quiet, and it won't be disturbed by the trolley passing through the aisle. In fact, no service is provided on this flight, and there is no 'Buy On Board' (BOB) service available either.

The route taken by our flight today: heading due North at 38,000 feet, following the Chilean border.

Our flight continues along the mountain range, although for the most part, the peaks remain hidden by the clouds clinging to them.

The sky often clears up over the lakes; here we have Lake Belgrano.

We caught a glimpse of the already snow-capped summit of Monte Zeballos.

In the northern part of Santa Cruz province, we can see the remains of volcanic activity, featuring small mountains shaped like lava cones.

We continue our route North. Yet another border lake, and yet another one that changes its name depending on the country: Lake General Carrera (in Chile) / Lake Buenos Aires (in Argentina).

Another break in the clouds allowed us to make out the small town of Esquel in the Chubut province.

It's a good thing the view from the window is entertaining, because the contents of the seatback pocket aren't very exciting. They only contain the standard safety instructions, which are common to all Boeing 737 variants operated by AR.

After a little over an hour in the air, the start of our descent was announced, and we began to close in on the rolling hills of the Chubut region our second destination on this Argentine trip.

The mountains are getting closer and closer, a sign that we are approaching Bariloche, our destination, located near Argentina’s main ski resort, Cerro Catedral.

The approach into Bariloche from the East requires a few turns over the arid lands found to the east of the city, where the terrain becomes flatter.

Final moments of the flight on short final for runway 29.

Arrival at the end of the morning in Bariloche

Heavy touchdown on the Bariloche runway, followed by some rather aggressive braking. Our crew clearly didn't want to miss the last taxiway, which would have otherwise forced a backtrack at the end of the runway.

Welcome to San Carlos de Bariloche’s Teniente Luis Candelaria International Airport. I must admit, I was momentarily worried that the terminal might be this vintage, rustic-looking building, but it was likely the old facilities. Indeed, a much bigger and more modern control tower stands on the other side of our aircraft.

We parked alongside this Avion Express Airbus A320, registered in Lithuania. It's operating during the winter season on behalf of the Argentine low-cost carrier Flybondi, and was planning to get back to Buenos Aires (EZE).

Disembarkation began quickly, with instructions from the crew for the (few) passengers continuing on to Buenos Aires to remain on board. They were told not to change seats and to be ready to identify their cabin baggage before the boarding of passengers traveling only on the Bariloche to Aeroparque leg.

A fuselage shot upon arrival, with the mountains as a backdrop the main draw for the region, particularly during the winter season with Brazilian tourists.

Disembarkation via a very modern, glass-walled jet bridge sponsored by a Chinese bank.

A last look at our aircraft for today (in the foreground), while in the background, an Aerolíneas Argentinas Boeing 737 MAX-8 pushes back for its departure to Buenos Aires.

The arrival path is quite short and takes us down one level to the baggage reclaim area; unlike in El Calafate, there is no sanitary control here.

The baggage reclaim hall isn't very large, and several flights end up sharing the same carousel. We had to wait a good ten minutes or so for our bags to arrive on a belt branded with the colors of the main local car rental agency.

Landside is quite crowded, with a mix of taxi drivers, hotel representatives, and families waiting to pick up passengers.

A large portion of the crowd was there for the same reason I was, lining up in front of one of the largest counters that of the American rental company, Hertz. Despite a good number of staff, it took a solid twenty minutes to process the paperwork and another half hour to receive the vehicle keys. A group of young Germans lacked patience and began complaining about the wait quite rudely to the manager a young woman who couldn't have been more than 30, but who managed to stand her ground while de-escalating the tension.

Nearly an hour after our arrival, we finally picked up our vehicle to begin our tour of the Bariloche surroundings, all under a beautiful late-summer blue sky.

This is where our report ends; I’ll leave you with the second bonus part dedicated to the famous Fitz Roy.