Review of Japan Airlines flight from Tokyo to Naha in Domestic First

Konnichiwa!

Welcome to the second instalment of my ‘summer 2020’ greedy-needy round of flights. The complete series has already been published in French, but I wanted to share with you, English readers, some of its highlights (issued in a rather capricious order).

Our journey begins in Naha, capital of the Ryukyus and final destination of today’s adventure (which will, thus, unfold in the form of a boomerang) .
 
A refreshing swim under the scrutiny of motorists. 

and a delicious -local- noodle soup…

helped us to confront the forthcoming excursion with full energies.
 

context

Greed tends to be a bad thing. JAL was offering at the time super bonuses on their fidelity programme and it became very difficult to resist temptations of being easily swathed in FOPs. A very rewarding and very ‘enviromental-unfriendly’ (and very absurd to the eyes of a normal person) routing came to existence: OKA-HND-OKA.

Just for the sake of collecting points.  

The morning flight was a dull affair (in an antiquated & declining Seattle-conceived vessel) but I had hit the jackpot in my reservation, because I had been able to secure a seat in a state-of-the-art bird, freshly delivered from Toulouse, for my return flight. YEAHHHHH!!!!

To make the most of this experience, rest assured that I will be cajoling and praying to the ever-smiling ladies on the Haneda counters for an on-spot upgrade (at a fixed rate; currently running at 1.000 yen for a Class J seat or 8.000 yen for a First Class seat).

But to accomplish this, I really need to get to Haneda first.  

we are almost there

A big leap in time and space brings us to the hallways of Haneda Airport (Terminal 1), headquarters of the Rebel Alliance (always struggling against the mighty forces of the Empire).

If I want to increase my chances of travelling in GREAT style, I really need to reach the JAL gentle-ladies’ desks before the rest of competitors. Run!     

YEAHHH ! YEAHHH ! Seemingly, local kamis have intervened in my favour and I am now a holder of Japanese domestic aviation’s Holy Grail (namely: a HND-OKA First Class ticket -3 hours flight- in a brand new A350!!) Access to paradise GRANTED! (entrance price stands, apparently, at about 60 euros).

Happy as a young kid with a new pair of shoes, I, thereafter, return to the airside hallways and ponder what to do and where to go in the two hours preceding my flight to paradise.
 

Naturally, access to JAL’S Diamond Premium lounge is accorded (where automatic beer dispensers await draught lovers). I could also roam around the manyfold stores, watch national TV on one of the numerous TV sets permeating hallways and waiting rooms or I could just take a seat somewhere and read a book.

In the end I would opt for the latter. But, preferring quiet places devoid of glaring screens and lousy commercials, I take advantage of the generosity of my bank provider and choose a fitting (serene) space. 

Free non-alcoholic drinks are provided. The selection of juices and teas is unconventional and tasty. Coffee, on the other hand, should be avoided if you have a sensitive palate and care about refined flavours and aromas.

A soothing and well-designed space, it is!  

This being an airport lounge in Japan, it is far from surprising to find generous counters facing windows bays and overlooking air traffic.

And, in here, great views are guaranteed even if you choose armchairs distant from the front line.

The views on offer include taxiways, a runway (34L-16R), the former International Terminal (recently renamed Terminal 3) and Mt. Fuji (when the weather is good).

I hereby introduce you to a young relative of today’s bird, born in Toulouse some months after our conveyor. He is blanketed with the faces of five ludicrously famous boys that seem to have been singing, dancing and hosting TV shows forever. Admittedly, I haven’t gone in detail through Arashi’s (massive) discography or series of acts, but whenever I happen to listen to or watch them I really, really wonder where is the trick. I find them very untalented and their music insufferable. But I am clearly outnumbered in such perceptions in here. 

A good hot chocolate and some fresh tomato juice will fit just fine today, under such gloomy weather conditions. 

This is the sole screen to be found at the lounge. It displays information on upcoming departures. Sober and convenient. La classe! 

With a little bit of time still in my hands, I decide to go upstairs and offer myself a decent cup of coffee at the Diamond Premium lounge.

My gateway to paradise 

A last view before meeting my angels

but…

Strolling along the boarding gates and preparing myself for all the upcoming emotions.

Here we are.

But…
Wait…  

Mais NOOOOOOOOOOOOON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I just take a closer look…. Gobsmacked! 

DAMN IT! 

Some might find comfort in the fact that a craft worthy of Ian Flemming’s novels will be transporting us to the tropics. But it does not really work for me.
At least, First Class is still there. Uff!  

Heartbroken and mumbling my miseries, I head to an almost empty gate control 

A spotless rotunda manages passengers’ traffic.

Left turn for us, today.

Boarding bridges are equally clean. And -financial- advertisements do not spoil that clarity.

Jetwalk door, control console and aircraft door. A really popular tryptic among FR contributors. Apparently no one there to greet us, but most of my co-flyers are already at their positions. 

the cabin

I will be seating here for the next 3 hours. Definitely a downgrade when compared to what I could have gotten at the A350. Nonetheless, my disappointment is soon overcome by the thrills of sensing our take-off approaching. 

The seat pocket is brimming with security notices or other paraphernalia that only aviation geeks would care about… and an intriguing purse…

…containing a pair of slippers (quite comfortable, indeed)

It is at this precise moment that Kunimo-san* makes her appearance and greets us with the widest ever smile one can imagine. (We were also forced, indeed, to imagine it).
 *(details concerning this moniker are to be found in my previous report or flipping through the French version of the site, where numerous reports tell stories about Monique, the flight attendant)  

The view on the left side today is much less compelling. And I really wonder if we are going to be able to enjoy the landscapes after take-off…

At least we are granted the possibility to send off Someity-kun and Mirato-chan.

It is our turn, now.

Exotic! Rare! Unique! Out of dozens and dozens of takeoffs in Haneda I reckon this is the first time I hit the skies from runway B (04-22)! Perhaps it is due to the recent changes on landing routes, or may be this is about today’s terrible weather conditions… At any rate, we will be presented with interesting views of Terminal 3. 

Which seems to have been completely seized by the imperial forces…

And as expected, shortly after take-off, we abruptly penetrate thick layers of clouds, offering nothing but a long series of white and grey tones to admire. 

interlude

To compensate that monotony, I henceforth grant you with some scenes enjoyable at this stage of the flight when the weather is good and you are seating in the pertinent side of the plane (which, for OKA bound ones is K seats)

Just like Hiroshige (or Hiroshi Sugimoto) enjoyed them. Be hypnotized by the majesty of the views.

end of interlude

Coming back to reality, Kunimo-san distributes the oshiboris, which mark the first blast of long and delightful culinary fireworks.

Having opted for autochthonous spirits on my previous experiences, I decide to give Western offerings a go this time. In hindsight, it proved to be a poor decision…

I am no expert on fizzy drinks, but my reckoning is that I have tasted more refined sparkling wines than this one. The plastic cup did not help to enhance the drinking experience.

As accompaniment of our meal, I would switch to plain inebriants produced in Calabria. Nothing to write home about.

Kochi prefecture was the region featured in JAL’s flights on that month of June. Delicious and well-balanced food was served (the menu was exactly the same as the one offered in my previous flight, because I flew the same route and in the same time slot)

JAL First Class used to offer three different meals a day depending on your departure time (-10:30am/10:30am _4:30pm /+4:30pm) and airport (HND outbound or inbound), before upheavals related to the coronavirus outbreak changed the equation. Menus were renewed 3 times a month. Onboard, choices were limited, thus, to drinks. 

But at the time of flying, menus were seldom renewed and glassware or tea cups had been replaced by plastic cups. Major or minor changes, depending on your judging criteria. To me, it felt very reasonable, although I dislike the use of disposable plastic cups when eating, regardless of context and (meal) budget. 

Cabin is getting ready for a short nap. First Class here is much wider than on the B-767’s. And less intimate. I would choose the latter, if I was given the opportunity. But the ultimate choice is, undoubtedly, the A350’s!!!

While my travel companions start to doze off, I entertain an absorbing and amiable conversation with Kunimo-san, sharing the pleasures of being well taken care when flying, my frustration for the last-minute aircraft swap and my plans in Okinawa. A memorable exchange.

She withdraws just to come back with a (good) coffee and some heartfelt words.  

Vintage photos illustrate the front of the card.

Good things also come to an end

Once the clouds gone, it is blue tones that take hold of our windows. (Those with inquisitive eyes may have noticed that some protuberances are gaining ground over the horizon. This might be a sign that we are getting close to our destination…)

No possible doubt now. We have reached the Ryukyu archipelago. Crystal clear. Below us, the western fringes of Motobu village 本部町 are facing Ie Island 伊江島. But what really interests me is to be found on the right side of the picture.

Our flight-route brings us closer to tiny Sesoko Island 瀬底島, currently experiencing remarkable transformations (an environmental disaster or magnificent new business opportunities, depending on your way of seeing things). Hilton is tearing down scattered single-cabins hidden in the forest and replacing them with several 10+ level-high condominiums). 

Some moments later we overfly its little sister, Minna Island 水納島. This used to be a desert island until the onset of the 20th century -no natural source of drinking water is to be found-, but it is visited by more than 100.000 tourist a year nowadays. Historic records refer to Minna as a utaki 御嶽 (sacred place in the autochtonous beliefs -Ryukyu Shinto 琉球神道-). I wonder if it still retains its sacred status, despite all the canoes, catamarans, motorboats and paragliding encircling it.  

Below you will find a short sequence of images depicting cape Zamba and the very photogenic coastline that surrounds it. 

We are experiencing a very smooth and gradual descent. Naha’s skyline takes hold of the horizon.

Having played cat and mouse for a long while, it seems that we have finally come to terms with the soil and accepted to re-unite.

That’s it, friends again.

There is still an ocean between the aircraft and our gate…

On our way to the Terminal we give way graciously to our comrades, taking off for Kyushu 

They’re almost there. 

Time and again, a magic moment.  

We move away from the ocean. Which means that we are approaching home.

The Japanese border being virtually closed (only NRT and KIX were receiving a very limited number of international passengers at the time), means that the International Terminal is deserted. Hints of activity and some colourful sights are only brought by disoriented local species.

We mutely cross the enemy lines

And arrive safely home.

Where plenty of family members, in all their ages and shapes, give us a cordial welcome. 

Upon leaving the jet bridge, ouchh! a harrowing reminder of my miseries. A very good-looking A350 parked just in front of our gate brings to mind what could have been but was not. 

In spite of an ageing aircraft with an outdated cabin replacing a state-of-the-art vessel, the flight experience had been very pleasant. And Kunimo-san attentions elevated this unnecessary and greedy flight to a truly memorable time.

Vibrant colours of the tropics welcome us.  

All over the terminal

A short visit to the observation desk leaves us with nothing but two shots worth sharing. The air traffic was really sparse and I really wanted to start my discovery of the Honto Island.

Thank you very much for coming this far and see you soon in our next adventure!